The Soul of a Restaurant

What does it mean to say the "soul" of a restaurant?  I've been contemplating this since I met with Chef Josephine Proul for the first time.  We had never met before but in our first conversation I felt like she was someone I have known for years.  She's basically the same version of a person as me but in her words "a little more punk."  In our conversation one of the important topics we discussed was this idea of "soulless" restaurants. We all know this feeling, it's driving through a McDonalds or eating at a really busy pizza place where the staff is short tempered and completely uninterested in you as a person. Those settings are meant to do one thing, turn over volume!  Now don't get me wrong I have eaten at and occasionally dined at those restaurants, but I usually leave with an upset stomach, and very little overall satisfaction. So, this then got me thinking what exactly it means for a restaurant to have soul? To me, a restaurant with a soul is about more of a feeling than anything else.  It can be as simple as people knowing our names when we walk in the door, or a feeling that comes from the ambiance, or from the serving staff.  It is always reflected in the food, from the ingredients that go into preparing it, to the presentation and the timing.  And there's the flow, do I feel rushed as I'm finishing each course, does the server know the components of the dish when they recommend an entree or appetizer?  All of this I know sounds rather trivial however, it does make a very big difference in the overall dining experience, and how you feel when you return home. In her restaurant Local 111 in Philmont, NY, Chef Josephine strives to create a dining experience that brings a sense of community in such a way that you can really feel this difference. 

In order to taste firsthand what Chef Jo and I had been talking about, my husband and I decided we would dine at her restaurant a few weeks ago at the beginning of the fall season.  We were surprised to see the leaves not quite as colorful as we expected but there certainly was a crispness in the air to let us know fall was on its way.

Located about 1 1/2 hours from our home, Philmont is a quiet little town not far from the Catskill Mountains. For years now Local 111 has been the community hub of the area. It sits directly across from the local church, the Food Cooperative and food truck that Chef Josephine helps oversee and operate. The 39-seat restaurant which used to be an old automobile service station, still has it's garage doors which can open and close depending on the weather. The ambiance has an upscale rustic feel with a beautiful bar, and a separate 19 seat dining space for intimate dinner parties. They serve Soju, a Korean alcoholic drink made from rice or sweet potatoes as well as wine and beer.

After getting some drink suggestions from our server, I chose a pomegranate mocktail, it was the right amount of sweet and tangy to get our evening off to a fabulous start!

For the rest of our meal Jim and I decided to let Chef Jo pick our selections. I knew full well that she would know how best to guide our choices and she did a fabulous job. Each and every bite was delicious, as locally grown as possible, and full of flavor. A California native, she prides herself on using lots of fresh herbs and acidic elements in her dishes. This signature was evident in everything we tasted that evening. To start she sent us a delicious end of the season tomato sandwich with a house made mayonnaise spread, perfectly ripened tomatoes, and lightly toasted sourdough bread, topped with salted vinegar house-made potato chips.

After that we moved onto two salads, one was the special of the evening with tomatoes, goat cheese, pea shoots, thinly sliced kohlrabi, parsley leaves, & baby basil leaves, the other with beets, fresh parsley, thinly sliced radishes, crispy peanuts, and a light vinaigrette.

For our main course I was served the pan seared halibut with a buttery shrimp broth and my husband enjoyed the Kobe tri tip steak, perfectly cooked with mashed potatoes, house made steak sauce, & herbs. To finish our meal Chef Jo sent out the special of the evening, a poached pear with a dark chocolate cookie crumble topping, poached dates and cocoa nibs.

What I found most compelling from dining at her restaurant and our conversation together, was the emphasis Chef Jo had on creating a sense of community THROUGH her restaurant. Oftentimes, when I go out to eat I find myself observing everything in a dining space. I'm watching the serving staff, I'm checking out the menu to see what kinds of ingredients are going into the meal I'm about to eat. I'm feeling if the space is cozy or overdressed or chaotic. All of these things contribute to entirely different dining experiences and if I'm being completely honest, it is the places and spaces where I feel connected to the food, the setting, and the people inside the building that keep me coming back time after time. As we sat there that evening, I watched Chef Josephine spend time in the dining room as well as the kitchen, greeting her guests by name as they arrived. It was evident that her staff greatly respected and admired what she has accomplished and as a result do their best to bring an elevated experience to the customer. You can feel the heart in the tastes, textures and flavors of the food. And it was truly a pleasure to dine at a place where all of this came together so beautifully.

So, the next time you dine out, think about some of the things I've mentioned here. Take time to get to know the chef, and the staff of the meal you're enjoying. Feel how each meal you eat affects your mood and most importantly your body. Use your hard earned dollars to support those places that bring that extra element of connection and community together. It is people like Chef Josephine and her staff, who are working hard to provide that extra level of nourishment in an important and meaningful way. And honestly, I think our world could use much more of that!